Sunday 25 January 2015

Snow in Groningen

At last! It has snowed here in Groningen! Only a few inches and most traces are already gone after 24 hours, but still. Waking up on Saturday morning to see snow outside was just magical. I'm not sure why seeing freshly fallen snow turns me into a five year old, but there we are. After spending years in Colorado where the snow can be on the ground for five months or more, I might be asking myself why I even still find fascination with the white stuff. I think I still find the transformative aspect of it appealing. I didn't have to go anywhere, which certainly helped in finding it delightful. Here are some photos from Saturday morning in the city centre:

Grote Markt
Look out, these fruits are frosty!

Vismarkt
Martinikerkhof


Provinciehuis


Sunday 18 January 2015

Foyle's Finale: The End of an Era

Some eighteen months ago I wrote about the end of another television crime drama, that of Agatha Christie's Poirot. And now, today, is another culmination of a beloved detective series. I stumbled across Foyle's War, a crime drama series set in England during WWII, while on the hunt for films or shows the talented British actor Michael Kitchen had been in. I saw an episode from the second series and was immediately hooked. Nigh on seven years later, I am still as hooked as I was then.

I was studying at the time in the middle of the mountains in Colorado, a veritable backwater (I say this with the deepest affection, by the way), and it was a huge relief (if not a surprise) that the local library had the Foyle's War dvds. I watched them out of order as, wouldn't you know it, other patrons kept checking them out as well. It didn't matter, as they are fairly stand alone 90 minute episodes. At home for Christmas we ordered all the sets and it became a bit of a tradition to watch them each holiday.

Why was I so hooked? Gosh, I could be here all day just on the subject of Michael Kitchen's brilliant and understated acting ability, but let me try to be brief. First off, the quality of the show was excellent. Not only interesting and historically accurate plot lines written by Anthony Horowitz (who also contributed to some of Poirot's screenplays), but the filming managed to capture a nostalgic feel. Set in Hastings on the south coast of England, the scenery itself evoked an earlier, simpler time.

The house used as Foyle's home in Hastings -
taken during my visit in 2010
 Having grown up with the Old Country always present in our house, and my use of knife and fork, odd words like 'chap' and 'pardon', and my lapses into Queen's English spelling constantly being commented on by friends, immersing myself in the world of Foyle felt wonderfully like coming home. I can't explain it eloquently, but it struck a deep chord. Perhaps it was evocative of Enid Blyton's stories (if we leave out the murders) in a way, when boys still wore short trousers, ginger beer was the beverage of choice, and good, old fashioned justice was meted out. My childhood dreams were filled with her stories, and to be honest, I'd still give my right arm to be George (short for Georgina), racing around the English countryside on bicycles and finding secret passageways. One of the main characters, Sam (short for Samantha), is Foyle's driver and reminds me very much of an Enid Blyton character: inquisitive, brave, loyal to a fault, likes a "jolly good murder", and is unendingly jolly. I'd give my right arm to be Sam too, really...

Near "Foyle's" house, looking back towards
the Old Town (2010)
Hasting's Fishing Net Huts (2010)

So, the acting, the quality of production, and of course, most importantly, the stories themselves are reasons why I fell for the series. Foyle's War is not merely a television detective series, but a deeper look at the history of Britain during the war years. We are given an idea of what life on the Homefront was like; it was tough to say the least, and when the world is going to hell, what you really want is a principled, unwavering, honest chap to keep things on a balance. And this is where Michael Kitchen's character of Detective Chief Superintendent Christopher Foyle comes in. Unlike some other TV detectives, he doesn't rush around like a headless chicken looking for clues or rough up suspects in dingy interrogation rooms. Foyle is methodical, polite, clever, and need only pierce a wayward suspect with a steely look (which Kitchen is a pro at) to get results. Horowitz is a champion at the murder mystery, and his writing for this particular series was brilliant.

Hasting's Pier (2010)
The backdrop of history is fascinating, and after a few episodes I was back at the library finding all the books I could about the Second World War and Britain's part in it. For in truth, it is my history as well. My family both in England and in Holland were directly affected and involved with the war, as I suppose most people's families were, but I certainly felt closer to my own history after reading all about it. Growing up in a country that was not my own and feeling essentially rootless, learning about what things might have been like for my family gave me a sense of where I come from.

And here we have arrived at just why this show about a provincial detective on the Homefront means so much to me. Not only did it strike a chord and give me a chance to investigate my background, but it gave me the interest in a time period that was so important - everything changed after the war, and the repercussions were felt for decades and decades afterwards. It is only now we are beginning to find the space for reconciliation, as I've discussed before. This interest in all things WWII led to further research, which in turn led to writing, which then led to meeting those with similar interests, and has left me far better off than before, richer in knowledge and ability. Would I have been inspired to write three novels and countless short stories all set around the time of the war if I hadn't been obsessed by this time period? Would I have even dared to pick up my pen? I don't know. Foyle's War was a starting point: from there I was able to discover my passions in regard to history and writing, leading to so many wonderful things. Is there anything better than knowing what it is you truly enjoy?

So, you see, I'm not just sad to see this series come to end, though after 28 episodes and over 13 years I can quite understand Horowitz saying it's enough, I'm also grateful. It's given me quite a lot over the years, and the 'fandom', while small, is unique. I'm often teased for my obsession, but there you have it. It's not just about the actors and their relationships, or figuring out 'whodunnit'; it opened up a world I might never have touched upon. I have never once thought all those hours of researching, or trips to every museum that dealt with the war, or countless books on the subject a waste of time or money. I was learning - not just about the war, but about myself too.

I'm both dreading and anticipating tonight's final episode of Foyle's War. Saying goodbye has never been a strong point, and this truly does feel like the end of an era. But it's been a wonderful ride, and my interest in the series and time period is for life, so it isn't really the end of it all. I'll still research and read and write. I'll re-watch the episodes and remember fondly that there was a time when I saw beyond a detective show and instead saw the boundless possibilities of interest in a subject and what it might bring. We live for our passions; our interests drive us like nothing else, and I shall strive to continue following mine.


Thursday 15 January 2015

Terschelling's Bunkers

It is a strange business to wander around derelict remains of a war. It is, however, a common occurrence for someone like me who relishes all things about history, particularly WWII. It's just so interesting. Towards the end of the holiday, just after new year, the weather was surprisingly mild so we took a little jaunt to enjoy the day. Having had a most interesting discussion the previous week with a man who is working on a project to restore Terschelling's war bunkers, we went to have a look at the work they've been doing.

A small bunker in the dune
 I've mentioned the bunkers briefly in a previous post, but I'd like to take a deeper look. I have spent long summer days exploring these bunkers - there are roughly 90 still remaining on the island. They have, over the years, been filled in or boarded up for safety, and the ever changing landscape of sand has reclaimed many. Underneath the sand, however, is an entire warren of bunkers. Many of the bits that do stick out up above the sand have been grafittied to an inch, and open bits of the old gun or light turrets have been filled with careless garbage, which is a real shame.

One of my favourite summer (or any season, if I'm entirely honest) activities is "bunker hunting". As I mentioned, the sand is always moving and after each big storm, sometimes a bit more can be seen. I wish I was twenty years younger at those moments: can you imagine!? Playing at Famous Five in real bunkers and possible secret passageways!

Tiger Complex

After the war was over and the occupying forces had left, people wanted to forget and rid themselves of the reminders. And quite naturally too. Five years of occupation, on a small island less than 20 miles long, was no picnic. Things were dismantled, mines removed, and so on. The bunkers and anti aircraft batteries were built by Terschellinger hands, so though we may call them the "German bunkers", they are in many ways a part of the island. I believe there is one man still living on the island who was a part of the building team.

Obviously, they are built high on top of the dunes to have the best vantage points. The largest of these bunkers is now in the midst of a wood that has grown up around it, but in the '40s, it had a clear view out to sea. This set of bunkers, called the Tiger complex, is the focal point of the project that is currently going on to restore and reopen the bunkers.

The work that has been done to push back the sand and make the bunkers safe is quite astounding. It was all under sand, and now look at it! Inside there are two floors; it was where they kept track of aircraft movements (vliegtuigbeweging). Nearby was a canteen and a commando bunker. Huge amounts of radar equipment were also housed here. It is truly quite remarkable when you see some of the old photos and blueprints.


Tiger
The complex is massive - all through the woods you stumble (at times, literally) over another bit of evidence. I am very much looking forward to when the project is complete and we can go inside. It is important that this history is not forgotten. Here is a link that has some old photos to give you an idea of what it was like.

On my quest to find out more about the island's war history, I've talked to people and asked at the local museum, but there is very little information to be had. My family's own stories are fascinating - full of enough intrigue to fill many pages no doubt.

But I think my generation is desperate to remember a time that older generations wish to forget...


Top part of a commando bunker